Friday, 6 September 2013

Ghetto fpv Goggles

Ok so for the first time, this isn't one of my own posts. However, it is possible to make your own ghetto fpv goggles to enable you to have a more immersive flying experience, and also look like a dimwit at the same time ;)

Here's the guide: http://youtu.be/2H_PvU82o7A


And if you're happy to buy a cheap kit version. Look here: http://www.flyingwings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=57_76&product_id=382


:) :) :)


Thursday, 29 August 2013

Ghetto fpv quadcopter: episode 2



Ok, so in my previous blog post, I wrote a fairly comprehensive instruction on how to build a ghetto fpv quadcopter for around £115. It works well. However, just this week I was given a camera module MC495a

I decided to test it and see how it works. 
Connecting the mc495a to our 200mw tx is fairly straight forward. Desolder the simple usb wire from the tx's video out, snip off the connector attached to the rca a/v adapter cable included with the camera, and solder that on to each of the 4 connections on the tx - video, audio, power, ground. Not forgetting the diode at the power. Done. Now, you just plug the camera into that new 4-pin connector. I sealed the exposed back of the camera using tape.


mounting the camera and tx I tried a different approach than the top-mounted 808 #16 camera, as I have thought about the damage to the cloverleaf antenna I have had to repair often, using this method. I opted for a tail-like antenna mounted out the rear of the quadcopter using a simple 'bag-pouch' made from anti-static plastic bag material and a small ziptie. The front, I screw mounted the camera to the front of the quad frame (the screw was a silver screw from the case of the 808 #16 camera).
Simples...

Using an rca-to-3.5mm plug pigtail cable, connected to the rca audio plugs on the rc305 output, I am able to get audio aswell as video on my controller, using a cheap speaker: like this.

I like the camera, as it is lighter and seems more robust than an uncased 808 #16 camera. It seems like the picture quality, and response time is better too.

Downside is that it isn't recording 720p vdeo to sd card. However they can be swopped over if needed, or I may try a WLtoys v262 in the future, of something that can lift both fpv setup & 808 #16 cam (possibly with a cheap gimbal rig...watch this space)

I am recording this fpv camera using a cheap easycap dongle on a laptop, using virtualdub software. Works for me.

One problem I am having, is that I have learned to fly fpv by aiming to have on my monitor screen, half sky, half ground. And as such, as the sky is often naturally brighter than the ground, the camera adjusts for light, and makes the ground dark, shadowy, almost un-viewable. As the camera doesn't seem to have any way to adjust light exposure control, I am wondering what your solutions are?

I am thinking:
-Learn to fly with the camera pointing 90-100% ground, when level flying. (Could be risky monitoring level flight)
-stick some kind of graduated filter over the lens, so that the sky is dimmed, causing the ground to be lightened. I'm aware of photography-related graduated filters, but not tiny lens graduated filters. Anyone have experience with this idea?

How do you adjust/mount your fpv camera to get the best light exposure setting?????











Saturday, 27 July 2013

Ghetto fpv Quadcopter

Ok, so in my last post, I wrote about making a video recording quadcopter using an 808 #16 keychain camera and a cheap toy quadcopter, the WLtoys v929. Quadcopter recording is great. I have had many adventures recording at places ranging from my local woods, to Donnington Race track in the UK.

Anyway, my point being, once I had the flying bug, that is, once I learned not to crash anymore, I wanted to hack what I had, more. I learned that the 808 #16 camera allows video-out through it's usb port, and by mashing together a simple transmitter and receiver I could send and receive video to a screen. So, in effect I could fly FPV (first person view). It works great and I feel like I have experienced what it is like to fly, and learn-to-fly an aircraft. It's a strange feeling flying something that is out of sight, and it takes calm nerves and trust of your gadget creation skills. Things you need to know are, the quadcopter and controller use the 2.4ghz radio band which is the same as wifi. This means, parts are readily available and cheap. The video uses 5.8ghz radio band. The two bands are not the same as each other to help prevent cross frequency interference. Long-range radio frequencies are lower frequencies, i.e 1.3ghz, 900mhz. However, we will be using less expensive, higher frequency gear, and improve them with better antennas. We have a limited weight allowance with which to load the quadcopter before it becomes unable to take off, so we have to be very lean with materials. I estimate the lift allowance to be around 25-27grammes. What you will have at the end of this project is an fpv-ready quadcopter that will have greater range than the 'cheap' sub £250 quadcopters, and with better video quality, HD recording, cheap replaceable parts if broken, and modular parts that can be used on other gear (planes, cars, bird nest monitoring, etc). I figure that getting an fpv quadcopter, including controller, batteries and go-pro camera will cost about a grand. Ours will cost about a hundred pounds.



So here's a run down on the parts:

-I use a cheap 7" monitor from ebay that works great = £12
-3S 11.1v 3800mah lipo to power the monitor (secondhand but pristine condition = £6). Although the 2s 1300mah lipo powered the monitor perfectly fine for an hour as I timed it. So the 3800mah 3s is plenty.
- RC305 RX again from ebay = £15
- 2s 7.2v 1300mah lipo for the RC305 = £5
- Both of these have been attached to the back of the monitor using velcro sticky strip (£1 per metre)
- I trimmed all cables as short as I wished on the monitor, and the RC305 cable lost it's 2 audio cables, leaving only video.
- Camera 808 #16 wide angle from ebay = £28

- hacked up an old mini usb cable to get the plug and used only pin 2. I used this for video out instead of trying to solder a single wire to the camera board pin 2. As this seemed too fiddly at present. And I want to use the 808 camera as bike mount and hat mount cam, so I wish not to butcher it.
- TX5823 200mw 5.8ghx module from ebay = £15

- Tx uses a N4001 diode to reduce the 3.7-4.2v of the lipo, to 3.3v that the TX requires - preventing it from burning out.
- RG316 pigtail with RPSMA connectors. Hacked this up to make an antenna, soldered outer shield cable to ground, centre cable to antenna. Have enough left over for several cloverleaf/helical antennas in future. = £2
- Using tiny 3.7v 1s lipo that I use for both the 808 camera & Tx. ebay = 3pack £2.50
- the tx, lipo, 808 all use a combination of micro jst connectors that I bought (male & female 10xpack) on ebay for £1.50 - not the normal red jst connectors. I want to use this at present so I can easily change the lipo if it runs out, and use the tx module on another RC vehicle, or use a cheap 520tvl camera later on if I wish.
There has been lots of trimming & soldering wires as short as they can go, trimming and soldering coaxial is a chore.
Battery charging - I'm using the v929 1s charger for the 1s lipo, and cheap B3 balance charger for 2s & 3s Lipos (ebay £4)

Price rundown (What I paid):

monitor = £12
3s lipo = £6
2s lipo = £5
RC305 Rx = £15
Velcro strip = £1
808 #16 camera = £28
TX5823 = £15
5x N4001 diodes = £1
RG316 pigtail = £2
1s 3.7v lipo x3 = £2.50
micro jst connectors = £1.50
Balance charger = £4
V929 quadcopter & 2.4ghz controller = £26
Total = £119



Early build stages:


setting up the transmitter, soldering & glueing the transmitter, building a tiny antenna...


Early mounting idea (note transmitter has not got the finished antenna yet)


Added a Diode to reduce the battery voltage slightly to prevent the transmitter from burning out.

Built a tiny circularly-polarized antenna for the transmitter, which enables 360 degree coverage, and much less static & dropout. I used this wire.

figured out the best way to mount the monitor to the controller as best as I could. I used some old single-ply wood from the shed, and cut it up. Nothing too fancy, wanted to keep it ghetto. Used some old foam board as a sunlight hood - attached with velcro.

Painted the monitor hood black, and sealed out any light from creeping in and affecting image quality using black vinyl tape. Damn sunlight...

I tested the video range using the scientific method of placing the quadcopter on a tree stump and walking as far as I could with the monitor/controller, before the video picture signal dropped out. I managed fairly well on first try. Better to know the limits before launching :)

Eventually, after several cheaply repaired crashes, I learned to fly using only the monitor, which is a weird feeling, and can cause panic at first. This was my practice loop which I have now mastered, and I'm flying over trees and buildings without worrying too much...

I eventually taught myself to build a helical antenna using the base of a pringles can, some copper wire, a piece of scrap/leftover plywood, and some solder and hotglue. Range almost doubled. I am guessing, but I think I get about 600m radius. Might have to walk the range test again....

I added some push switches, as I was finding it stresssful to get setup by fiddling with wires and plugs, and then attempting to take off. It worked, because I lowered my stress levels resulting in fewer crashes, and I was able to manage listening to my girlfriend calling me a loser and to get a life while flying. heheh.

I hacked open the cheap controller, and desoldered the crappy antenna inside there. I added RG316 cable with an already soldered plug on the end. This allowed me to use a more powerful antenna.

Like this black rectangular wifi antenna. 

So, now I am happy that I am actually flying. I can improve the quadcopter handling by swapping the 808 #16 camera with a small security-style spy camera module which uses 3.7v weighing 2grammes. This can reduce weight load by a massive 15grammes, allowing a slightly larger transmitter battery to be used, or possibly an OSD module like below.

I am also aware that WlToys have released a more 'balanced' quadcopter called the v212. Which, has an accelerometer as well as the gyroscope to assist in levelling during flight, preventing wind from blowing it over, and correcting errors. I even hear you can throw it in the air and it will correct itself ready to fly. Also, this week WlToys have released the v262, a larger quadcopter that seems to allow up to 100grammes of lift. This would allow you to use a mini fpv camera that we made with the 2gram camera, and also the 808 #16 camera to record video, from different angles such as, from the rear of the quad. That might leave more weight allowance for experiments with a mini servo gimbal rig for the 808 camera.

Progression on this project could be to hack the quadcopter circuit board, and add a digital compass and barometer like they have in mobile phones running 3.7v. This could mean you can then measure altitude and direction, and possible make a switch to hold altitude, and set heading.

Once the above has been achieved,you could also integrate a small 3.7v OSD (onscreen display):

Which could show you flight time/voltage left, altitude, gyroscopic yaw, compass measurements etc..

Another possibility, could be to attach a RaspberryPi tiny computer to the back of the monitor, and program an Augmented Reality game that could blast aliens, shoot balloons, or fly through rings. 

Now wouldn't that be fun?

And you will have made it all yourself :)

Thanks and feel free to donate a dollar:











Wednesday, 27 March 2013

Ghetto Video Quadcopter

Ok, So we have quadcopters. I did a lot of research into getting one, and my first avenue was the Mikrocopter, kkmulticopter, multiwii controller board to enable me to build my own. It turned out that this direction could add up to about £550 for the transmitter, frame, esc controllers, motors, props, control board, lipos & charger, and fpv. Nuh-uh. I say. £550 is a significant figure. And that's even without gps/dji systems & a gopro camera. And considering the amount of bad, wet & windy weather I get around here, It could be a disaster.


So, I put it off for a few weeks, and came back to it at a later date. What interested me now was the Hubsan Spyhawk plane with fpv camera. I really like the swooping and gliding to be had with planes as opposed to quadcopters. £200 seemed a good bet to me, and I was hoping to eventually take the fpv system from the spyhawk and add it to a quadcopter at a later date. Alas this seemed complicated.

Eventually, I looked at the mini quadcopters that are around; like the Hubsan X4, and wondered if they had the required lift to carry a camera like a gopro. I know that was a physical impossibility, so I looked at other options. What I discovered was the WLToys V929 ladybird quadcopter.

And the 808 #16 120 degree keychain spy camera:


It seems the v929 had the lift to carry this camera! Whooo! And the price - Quad = £26 Camera = £28 Total = £54

So I ordered it, and stuck the two together. And this is what I got.....

 

In the future, I will add a teeny tiny fpv system using these parts: camera, receiver, monitor, transmitter. But for now I am learning to fly it. It is not easy. And wind is a quad killer. I really like the 808 camera for what it is. It offers the same wide view as high end action cameras, is good quality, and cheap. I like that I can just carry it in my pocket and forget about it (it has a lens cap), mount it to my bike, hat, quadcopter, even make a waterproof case and take it underwater. I work at music festivals during the summer, and I think I might try to sneak my mini quadcopter into the festivals and film from above. It's small enough, and I might even mod it to have a collapsible frame so it's even smaller. It could make some amazing filming. :)



What I notice, no matter what, is that all good quadcopter videos are all captured during perfect weather! So, even if you are witnessing the birth of the second coming, if it is blowing outside, it's tough titty.


Monday, 27 February 2012

Ghetto Android phone.


Ok. So I bought the T-mobile Rapport/huawei u8180/u80160/8150/Orange Stockholm/etc etc etc….It cost me £40 from here.

This is the cheapest way to get a modern, functional, android phone.


It has GPS, 3G, Wifi, Tethering, so on and so on. It's good, but a bit slow once loaded with apps. But I can make it faster!

It did everything I wanted it to....Play Doodle Jump.
-It came with a 2gb micro SD card too.
-Unfortunately I couldn't get the T-mobile 6months free internet without topping up, so I passed on that.
-Also the so called £20 of free apps is not available anymore.
- I use GiffGaff simcard.

This is how you make it lighter, and faster:

I rooted the phone using 'SuperOneClick'
-first: plug the phone via usb, and let windows install the drivers
-set the phone to 'debugging' mode - how to
- turn off the phone, remove the battery, count to five, replace the battery.
- press and hold the silver button at the bottom of the screen, and also the 'volume down' button on the right side of the phone. While holding these press and also hold the 'power on' button.
-the phone should appear to get 'stuck' on the t-mobile startup screen. if the phone loads into android - retry.
-once 'stuck', again plug in the phone via usb cable.
- let windows install more drivers
- run superoneclick, and press 'root' button.
- a popup message should/will appear asking you if you want to force install adm drivers. click yes.
- for me, another similar popup came next for another pci-based device. I clicked 'no' for this because I don't need android drivers on my soundcard lol.
- wait, wait, wait...And eventually, a popup message appears saying it has been successful.
- To check success - restart your phone - look in the app menu and there should be an app called 'superuser'
- Win! You have just rooted your phone.

Then you need to do this:
Installing ROM Manager & ClockworkMod
Find ROM Manager from the App Market and install it.
Open the ROM Manager application. Choose the option Flash ClockworkMod Recovery, and confirm the phone model as Huawei U8160.
After downloading the recovery image, a Superuser prompt will ask you for permission for the application to have root access. You should Allow this action.
ClockworkMod should now be flashed to your phone and ROM Manager should be fully functional. Enjoy!

Then you need to do this to install a fantastic new version of Android on your phone:
-Installation:
-Open the ROM Manager application.
-Ensure that you have the latest ClockworkMod build by checking the version information in the Flash ClockworkMod Recovery section, and updating if necessary.
-Select Download ROM -> psyke83.
-Select the ROM version that you wish to download, and press the Download button.
-You will see a popup: ROM Addons. Place a checkmark beside the entry for the latest Hotfix (if one exists) and for the Google Apps (even if you already installed the package on your current ROM). If there are other ROM Addons available, choose them at your own discretion.
-When the download completes, you'll see a ROM Pre-Installation dialogue. Here are the options with an explanation of what to select:
-Backup Existing ROM - this will make a full backup of your current ROM and user settings before proceeding to install the ROM. This is entirely optional.
-Wipe Data and Cache - this will wipe all user data. If you're upgrading from Froyo or any other custom ROM, you must select this option (and a backup is also recommended, since your apps and data will be wiped). Otherwise, don't select this.
-Wipe Dalvik Cache - this will ensure that the ROM upgrade works smoothly by forcing all applications to rewrite their dalvik cache (.dex files). This is a non-destructive option that should be used by everyone.
-Press OK to allow ROM Manager to reboot into ClockworkMod Recovery and perform the installation.
-When installation finishes, the phone will automatically reboot.
-Note: if you chose any of the "wipe" options, the first boot of the new ROM will take 5 minutes or longer (depending on how many applications you have installed) in order to regenerate the dalvik cache.

You now have A faster phone, with:
-more free RAM,
-Android version 2.3,
-an app to overclock your processor to 600mhz+ (I use 633mhz safely),
-an opportunity to install an app called 'ad free' which will remove all adverts in browser and apps
-no FBI monitoring app called 'carrier IQ'
-other stuff that's better.

I recommend these apps:
-ad free
-barcode scanner
-compass
-xe currency
-dropbox (you can use this to send downloaded apps from your pc to your phone)
-doodle jump
-endomondo
-gps status
-guardian lite
-mm tracker (to use downloaded os maps)
-natural alarm
-pixlr-o-matic
-opera mini
-wireless tether
-tunein radio
-voipstunt

Wish I could have an iplayer app, as the official one won't work because the phone doesn't support Adobe Flash (like a lot of android phones and iphones don't) - beebplayer does not work for me. I only really want to listen to bbc 6 music. fml. *update: I found an app called Tune in pro that plays 6 music.

Now you can also 'unlock' your phone to any network:
-the cheapest way is ebay (about £7 average price)
-using 'dc unlocker' requires '10 credits' for the phone code which costs 10euro. However, if you wait until 2013, after the big financial meltdown, this should not be a problem as we should all be using the honour system by then.
-I am working on unlock codes for £2. Bear with me.

Thursday, 28 May 2009

Ghetto quality Field Recorder.

Hey so, one of my hobbies is field recording. I'm the geek who you will see sat at train stations with a microphone, or on the sea front trying to capture the sound of the sizzle that the sea makes, as the sun's rays hit it. I'm a geek. A power geek. I haven't been laid in years.

So, being poor, I haven't been able to afford the current line of digital audio recorders like the Zoom H2 (£160), the Edirol R-09hr (£300), or the M-Audio Microtrack II (£190). These cool things are handheld small devices that record onto digital media cards, and they do it at high quality...At least 16bit/44.1khz frequency, which is considered CD audio quality. Some do 24bit/96khz which is often broadcast quality.

My setup, being Ghetto, has been a Sony MZ-r909 minidisc recorder, which I got on ebay for £6.



It records using sony's 292kbps ATRAC format, which is similar in quality to 320kbps Mp3 format. The minidisc devices are a hidden bargain in many ways for field recordists. They have a powered (1.5v) stereo mic input, and adjustable pre-amp to set your levels, sound level meter with clipping display, and you can monitor your sound while you record. It can also take simple AA size alkaline batteries. Perfect for being out and about trying to record anything you wish, without fear of dropping it and losing £300 in the process.

The problem with this minidisc setup, is that unlike the new digital recorders, it doesn't record 'CD quality' uncompressed .wav files at 16bit/44.1khz. The minidisc also has an anoying flaw in that, if you wish to transfer your recordings to your computer, you have to do a real-time recording using your sound card input, and the play button on your minidisc. This can take a while in most cases, and also you may mess up the sound volume levels during transfer. I wasn't bothered at first, but it started to annoy me after a while, being a lazy ghetto bum.

So, I had a dream one night that lit up an idea. I thought:

"what if I use my old ipod, and the microphone dictation adapter that I used to record my university lectures with as a recording device and use the minidisc as a preamp to power my microphone?"


This way, I could record directly to my ipod in 16bit/44.1khz .wav files, as opposed to ATRAC, and then just plug in the ipod and drag & drop the file to my computer. So, what did I do....

I learned that my ipod can be loaded with a new operating system called Rockbox, which can record in .wav, .aiff and .mp3, and has adjustable gain controls and pre-record features just to name a few. So, I gave it a try.

It does work very well, but the problem I had was with the right audio channel producing a 'pulsing hiss' when recording, which wasn't what I needed. A sample of the Hiss is here. I want clean pure recordings!!! The setup I am using is:

-Sony MZ-r909 Minidisc (As a microphone preamp)
-XtremeMac Micromemo adaptor (As an audio line-in for the ipod)
-5g ipod (As a recording device)
-Rockbox (As recording software)

After some beard scratching, I figured out a way to eliminate the 'pulsing hiss'. I went through it procedurally: It wasn't my microphone, it wasn't my minidisc, neither was it the micromemo adaptor. It was either the rockbox software, or my ipod.

So, My compromise now was, trading in the rockbox software which has multi-format recording options, and adjustable gain levels, and using the ipod's standard recording program that comes on when you plug in the micromemo adaptor. This alone records in the desired .wav 16bit/44.1khz format, but it doesn't have adjustable gain control. However, as my minidisc does, I can use that and just line-feed the sound to the ipod. Also, you can't use the ipod headphone jack to monitor your audio as you record using the standard ipod recording software, which is unfortunate. You have to plug into the minidisc and watch the level meter there.

But you know what? After all this experimentation...I've got a solution, and it works.
I have my 16bit/44.1khz .wav field recorder, which can just drag & drop. And, i've done it with things that I already had, so my cost is £zero.

You can pay up to £180 for an Alesis Protrack adapter for your ipod, to do the same thing as this Ghetto recorder.

In Conclusion....

If Rockbox develop the recording facility on the 5g ipod so that it doesn't hiss, records in 16bit .Flac format. It will be perfect for my needs.

What I have learned during this process is that:

-It's all one big tradeoff: live monitoring -or- 16bit .wav, drag & drop -for- real-time transfer, Atrac -or- .wav, stereo ipod -or- clear-left/hissy-right channel rockbox. No system, not even the digital recorders are perfect 'killer' devices.
-Rockbox is going to be a great recording system eventually. Maybe it just didn't work for me? If anyone has similar problems please let me know, and likewise any bug fix ideas.
-The 5g ipod can't record in 24bit/96khz audio due to either it's hardware or software.
-the digital age is a great experimentation opportunity.
-Sony & Apple are mosters when it comes to restricting your ability to transfer audio, or record. Solely to protect their music industy monopoly.

So, what is my killer device?
-live monitoring
-powered inputs
-replaceable battery
-multi format recording (.wav, .Flac, .aiff)
-up to 24bit/96khz
-digital media card
-cheap

If you would like to hear a field recording sample that I made using this setup, see here.

Tuesday, 22 April 2008

Ghetto Psion 5 email & web

So here we have my walkthrough guide to help you to get email & web browsing set up on an old Psion 5 series using a cell phone with an infra-red (irda) connection. It's ghetto.

I bought a Psion 5 on ebay to enable me to write travel Blogs when I go bike touring. It uses simple AA size batteries, which last forever, yet you can touch type using the great keyboard and word application on it. It has a B&W screen which will put many off. But, the battery life using this type of screen is better for my needs, as I can't just recharge the device anywhere when out on the road. Six weeks of battery power on a standard Laptop? Forget it!

I was just going to type all my thoughts on the Psion and then take it home to edit & publish.
However, I have learned that it has greater possibilities than that. I can take out the compact flash card put it in a mini USB flash reader and upload the documents to my blog from any internet cafe wherever I end up.

I thought that was that until I learned that the Psion 5 can in fact send email and browse the web using a cell phone. This is a great thing for me, as it enables me to publish directly to my travel blog when I am pretty much anywhere. Of course, the call costs will differ depending on what country I am in, but I gather I can purchase a SIM card for each country I'm currently at, for very little.

Perhaps someone can create a list of dial-up ISPs for around the world, and the connection information for each one? That would be great! Also a list of SIM providers around the world would be great too. Roaming on your home SIM network costs quite a lot no matter what phone you use generally.

First of all, the hardware you will need:
1 x Psion series 5 pda (Bought from ebay for £20/$40)
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1 x cell phone with Irda (bought from ebay for £10/$20)
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1 x Pay-as-you-go sim card (O2 p.a.y.g sim = £2 from the ghetto market man)
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The phone I chose to use was an old second hand Nokia 8210, as it has an irda transmitter, and internal modem. Other, old phones you can use include: Nokia 7210, 8810, Siemens S25, Ericsson T28 and probably all others if you mess around a bit. There is a list of other compatible phones here.

I installed an O2 pay-as-you-go sim card because I tried an Orange sim which didn't work, and heard that the O2 sim allows data transfer without having to spend all day on the phone to some Indian dude trying to get him to send you the update settings for you phone. Boring!

software & sevices you need to be aware of:
Message suite for Psion 5 series - It puts a web browser & pop3 email utility on the PDA.

Mega Dial - It is an ISP which allows you to dial up to the internet using your cell phone.
In the UK, which is where I am writing this Blog from, there are several no-contract dial-up ISPs. Other services include: Adial, Free-Dialup, WebandMail and many many others. They're pretty much all the same.
They generally only charge a 'penny a minute' using landline modems. However, using a cell phone generally costs £1 to download your daily news information & emails. But, if you're going to be in a non-Wifi area in the middle of nowhere then you're going to have to dial-up anyway.

Next, you need an Email account like Gmail - you're going to enable mail forwarding to another mail service called bluebottle which you can then connect to using the Psion to read your email. A word of note, Gmail uses Java. If you try to use the series 5 browser to read messages, it won't work. You also need to enable POP3 email in gmail's settings tab. It's a bit of a pain in the ass, but this is the way to do it.

Bluebottle Email registration - It's free, and doesn't use SSL or TLS security which your Psion 5 will have problems with.


On with the show...
You need to learn about POP3 mail, and setting up an email client like Outlook or Thunderbird to download your mesages. It makes setting up any mail client on your Psion 5 easier to understand in future.

Firstly, I installed the message suite software update on my Psion, and added the following Nokia 8210 configuration settings:
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Then I added the Internet settings for the 'Mega dial ISP' as follows:
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To view the Internet, all you need to do now is:
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Enable irda on your cell phone.

Then open the 'Web' icon under 'extras' on your psion, and connect by typing in your preferred web page. In this example, I typed www.google.co.uk and the connection screen opened on the Psion. Just click 'OK'.

Then, wait for approximately 45 seconds for the phone to connect to the ISP, and your page should download...
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For my first test, I searched for 'Calzaghe' on Google.
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As you can see, you can download images and news articles for Google pages. A result!!!

In reality, I have learned that for faster & cheaper downloads, I should use 'mobile optimised' web pages like this BBC news page to keep costs down, and speed up transfer times.

Also, you can't open media rich web pages like myspace using a Psion 5, as it doesn't have Java or Flash player. I guess the Psion 5 is limited to sending/receiving email, reading news webpages, and basic information services. So poops to you...

But, that is adequate for my travel writing needs. I don't want a hefty Laptop, even the cool Asus eee PC isn't usable for my needs as the battery life isn't anything near the Psion.

The only near options I have considered are:

The Apple iPhone - Which has Wifi, Modem, and longer battery life than most UMPC laptops. Only, it doesn't have as typeable usability as the Psion 5's keyboard, or still as long a battery life. The iPhone is also currently only available on phone contract... And it currently costs...Um...£329...without phone contract charges included. Compare that to the Psion 5 I bought for just over £20 on ebay.

The Sharp Zaurus - Oh man. One day i'll leave the Ghetto, and own one of these Linux bad-boys. It cost's just a little too much for my pocket. But, ebay are doing nice deals if you can afford it.

Blackberry - Available on pay-as-you use contract. but still too costly for me. Yikes! I'm poor! haha. Also, the keyboard isn't as useable as the Psion.

The Psion really is king when it comes to pocket sized typing.

Now, on to email...